Via de la Plata: 9. Villafranca de los Barros – Torremejía. Travessia do Deserto / Crossing the Desert

PT / EN

Etapa 9: Villafranca de los Barros – Torremejía (27,4 km)

Noite mal dormida devido às dores nos pés. Também a antecipação da etapa, não dava grande tranquilidade, esperevam-nos longas rectas entre vinhedos, num dia de calor imenso e sem sombras!

O pequeno-almoço com o Yves e as duas alemães, Heike e Karin, animaram-me um pouco.

No início, tive a companhia de Yves, o que me ajudou a acertar o passo. Mais tarde, passa por nós o JB. “Oh, não!” Ele fazia parte do grupo dos três peregrinos franceses que tinham dormido no meu quarto em El Real de la Jara e de quem não tinha ficado com boa impressão. Vê-lo ali, significava encontrar os outros dois mais cedo ou mais tarde. Entretanto, o Yves despede-se por agora acelerando o passo, com encontro marcado em Torremejía.

Pouco tempo depois encontro o Joël, um segundo elemento do grupo de franceses, acompanhado por um peregrino escocês, o Gordon. Assim que posso, distancio-me, mas quando páro para fazer o lanche da manhã, o Joël e Gordon passam por mim e perguntam se podem acompanhar-me. Confesso que este gesto surpreendeu-me e foi o ponto de mudança da minha atitude perante o grupo. Seguimos juntos até encontrar mais à frente o terceiro elemento, o António, na altura acompanhado por uma peregrina francesa, a Brigitte e pela Lydia, holandesa.

Paramos para uma pausa na única sombra existente, mas acabo por retomar a caminhada mais cedo que todos os outros, seguindo sozinha até ao final da etapa. O caminho foi p-e-n-o-s-o!! Rectas intermináveis e um calor insuportável!! Os pés ferviam dentro das sapatilhas, as pausas tiveram de se tornar mais frequentes. Os cubos de sinalização eram a única opção para me sentar… felizmente são bem resistentes! Um casal de ciclistas passa por mim enquanto estou a descansar e pergunta se está tudo bem e se preciso de água. Fazem-me sorrir, não preciso, mas agradeço o gesto.

Continuo lentamente, o cansaço físico e psicológico imperam! Desde que saí de Sevilha, nunca me tinha sentido assim. Sem saber como, chego a Torremejía. A Brigitte vem abraçar-me: “Parabéns, já chegaste!” Gesto inesperado, mas reconfortante depois do deserto emocional que atrevessei.

À hora de jantar, a Wanda (polaca) aponta-me para o guia e pergunta onde será a minha paragem amanhã. “Oh, bye bye”. Ela e o marido têm os dias contados, não se podem dar ao luxo de fazer uma etapa tão curta. Eles apenas falam polaco, alemão e muito poucas palavras de inglês, eu, dessas línguas, só falo inglês. Este “pequeno pormenor” não impediu, no entanto, uma longa e divertida conversa, descobrindo vários pontos em comum, numa espécie de Jogo Pictionairy. Sem sequer fazerem ideia, aquele bocadinho com eles foi o ponto alto do dia!

Pontos finais: Tanta importância se dá às dificuldades físicas do caminho, quando a maior armadilha é a desmotivação, o cansaço psicológico. Por vezes, imperam as dores, mas a paisagem deslumbrante ao redor, dá algum conforto, noutras alturas, o trajecto é apenas monótono, mas reina a boa disposição e o caminho torna-se menos penoso. Quando há a conjugação dos dois factores para o lado negativo, como aconteceu hoje, tudo se torna apenas doloroso! Chegar é sentir o alívio de ter acabado o dia, nada mais, o vazio é grande depois deste deserto. Os pequenos gestos dos outros peregrinos tornam-se enormes e, felizmente, hoje recebi vários! :)

Etapas Via de la Plata

Livro “Um Caminho para Todos – Diário de uma peregrina no Caminho de Santiago, Via de la Plata e Camino Sanabrés”
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EN

Stage 9: Villafranca de los Barros – Torremejía (27,4 km)

(Translation in progress… google translation for now) :\

Sleepless night due to pain, especially in the feet, which will not let me find a comfortable position. Also the anticipation of today’s stage, did not give great tranquility, but without gaps worthy of note, esperevam us long straights between vineyards, a day of immense heat and no shadows! Moreover, no intermediate population (only Almendralejo, but it implied a deviation of 3 km and it was out of the question).

Against this background, it was no great energy that started the day, despite the set breakfast at the hostel with Yves and the two Germans, Heike and Karen, I have a little more excited.

Fortunately, during the first hour, I had the Yves company, which helped me keep pace. When he was about to go at your own pace, faster, passes us by JB. “Oh, no!” JB was part of the group of three French pilgrims who had slept in my room in El Real de la Jara and who had not been with good impression. See you there, it meant finding the other two sooner or later. The JB exchange a few words with Yves and continues in a very fast pace (normal step it). Just to tell what happened a few days before and he calms me saying that also had found them earlier and are “good people.” The fact that they are in group and probably happier that day, had been a little more comfortable and noisy. I am not convinced immediately, but in any case, did not give more importance to the case. He says goodbye for now, with appointment in Torremejía.

A little later, meeting the Joël, a second element of the French group, accompanied by a Scottish pilgrim who did not know, Gordon. We talk a bit without much enthusiasm on my part, they decide to stop to take anything from the bag and I’d rather move forward. It must have been punishment because pretty soon the feet start complaining so I have to stop at the first “stool” that meeting. I take a break to do the morning snack and again Joël and Gordon go through me and ask if I care to join me for part of the journey. I confess that this gesture surprised me and was the turning point of my attitude towards the group. We follow the three to find later the third element, Antonio, who followed with another French pilgrim, Brigitte and another, a little farther, Lydia, Dutch.

We ended up stopping all for a break at the entrance to a house, take the little found shade. After resting a bit, I decide to get back on track, they will be a little longer there. From that moment, all the way to the hostel will be done alone. The road was painful, with endless lines to lose sight of the horizon, the sun gave no respite and my right arm caught a sunburn. Sometimes I took the hat from his head to protect his arm, poured a little water to refresh, but nothing seemed to help. Feet boiled in sneakers, breaks had to become more frequent to give them some rest and let them air to cool a little. Again, signaling cubes were the only option to sit down … fortunately are very resistant! Some athletes, especially cyclists, enjoy these long straights to give to the pedal. A couple walks past me while I’m resting and asks if everything is fine and if I need water. Make Me Smile I do not need, but I appreciate the gesture.
Keep the snail’s pace, now reigns not only physical tiredness, psychological too! Since I left Seville, I never felt this way. I’m not sure how I come to Torremejía. Brigitte is on the terrace of the hostel door and when he sees me coming to get a big hug “Congratulations, since you came!” Unexpected gesture, but comforting after the emotional desert atrevessei.

At dinner time, almost all go to the hostel’s dining room, I had already eaten a sandwich and it was enough for me, so I go to the room to put the writing on time. Mal arrive, Wanda (Polish) points me to guide and asks where is my stop tomorrow. I answer that will only be to Merida (16 km) and she, with a sad guy says “Oh, bye bye.” She and her husband have its days numbered if they can not afford to make such a short stage. The written plan aired, I end up sitting down in her bed with them both and start a long conversation. Elaes only speak Polish, German and a few words of English, I, of these languages, only speak English. This “little detail” did not, however, a long and fun conversation, discovering various points in common. Among signs, drawings, mime, sounds, we managed to communicate a kind of Pictionairy game and, after all, was a beautiful gloss conversation eyes! Without even making idea, that bit with them was the highlight of the day! Almost time to say goodbye to go to sleep, Wanda leaps out of bed and points to the opposite wall, where one lizards,. Imagine the possible scenarios with the lizard walking into the room during the night gave rise to general risota. Saved us 2 Spanish Canary perched on that bunk beds, away from the animal away. One was especially naughty to play and the whole afternoon had been to spread the news that the hostel was astonished and added the “Uhhh, uhhh.” Some reactions of pilgrims were very fun!

Final thoughts: So much importance is given to the physical difficulties of the way (gaps, distances, if it’s hot or cold, if there are sources, settlements, services, etc.), however, the biggest pitfall is when reigns motivation, psychological fatigue . Sometimes prevail pain, but the stunning scenery around, gives some comfort, at other times, the route is only monotonous, but reigns good mood and the way becomes less painful. When there is a combination of the two factors to the downside, as happened today, everything becomes just painful! Come, feel the relief of having finished the day, nothing, emptiness is great after this desert. Small gestures of other pilgrims become huge and fortunately today I received several! :)

Stages of Via de la Plata

Book: “A Camino for All – A Pilgrim’s Diary on the Camino de Santiago, The Via de la Plata and the Camino Sanabrés”